ITR at the track

[vactor]

and this header is priced at? i don't reallly wanna switch headers, but damn, i would really like one that at least stays put together [img]tongue.gif[/img]

[austrian type-R]

why not just weld the pipe directly on the header, so it is one piece.

[fredtoast]

I've read that some guys add an extra hanger when they install the Kami header. Can't remember if it was here or on hondatech.

[Rboosted717]

Same thing happened to me after a track event a few yrs back. I had to drive 3hrs back home with an open collector. Worst part of all what at the time I was running a stock ECU so VTEC was on the most of the time (2hrs) since I was going about 95-110mph on hwy 5 (which is long and straight in the dessert for 500miles. lol)
But yeah like mentioned before do this:

I got mine to hold after a few tries with double lock washers, etc...
What I did was put the longest bolts I could fit into the 3-hole flange on the header. Then I added a lock washer to each side of the bolt and put the bolts into the header. Next I put two large nuts into the bolts and locked them tight together with red locktite. Next I pulled out the tig welder and tack welded the nuts to the bolt. Now its virtually impossible for the bolts to come loose. Oh yeah I also use 2 aluminum gaskets on the collect for good sealing.
I have had no problems at all now.

So all you need for this little fix is:
3- long bolts (longest that will fit in to the 3-hole flange on the header
6-lock washers
6-nuts
1-red locktite (not really needed, but use it if you have some lying around)
2- aluminum gaskets (for collector)
1- trip to a muffler shop or anywhere with a welder and get those nuts tack welded on.

Now you have a 1 piece header that will give you no more worries.

Note: If people are having problems with the downpipe -to- cat or test pipe issue, you need to make the joint able to pivot a lot. IE: loosing the bolts some or using a good donut gasket and keeping the tension on the looser side (to the point where it just seals). Many people over tighen this part and do not allow the joint to pivot a lot. Remember our motors like to pivot since they way they are mounted. Also using motor mount inserts help, however I would still recommend doing what I said above.

<font color="#a62a2a" size="1">[ June 24, 2003 02:51 PM: Message edited by: Rboosted717 ]</font>

[reddelsol]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size=2 face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><table border="0" width="90%" bgcolor="#333333" cellspacing="1" cellpadding="0"><tr><td width="100%"><table border="0" width="100%" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" bgcolor="#FF9900"><tr><td width="100%" bgcolor="#DDDDDD"><font size=2 face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">why not just weld the pipe directly on the header, so it is one piece.</font></td></tr></table></td></tr></table></BLOCKQUOTE>

That's what I would do. Or have a muffler shop do it.

[gsrteggie]

the fact that you paid $150-180 for the header makes the fix pretty not that big of a deal in my opinion.

I wish people would understand how shitty these headers actually are. I looked at one at a shop, and laughed. Besides, the horror stories here with them are more than enough reason to avoid/switch headers to a tried and tested DC.

[zip]

Switched from a DC to a Kami and never had a problem since day one. Here's why:










IMHO, the top end on the Kami is better than the DC header.

[vactor]

hey zip. how did you you mount the support bracket? it looks really nice!! did you make it yourself or did you gert it somewhere?

[zip]

I had a friend TIG weld the support bracket on the Kami collector. It mounts at the OEM header support bracket location. The Mr. Gasket 2.5" header collector paper gasket is holding up fine. [img]wink.gif[/img]

[vactor]

which support bracket are you using and where can i get one ... or did you make it yourself?